Sakurajima - The Symbol of Kagoshima

Sakurajima.. is the first ever active volcano that I have personally come across. One the first evening of arrival, I could not help staring at the smoking Sakurajima from my balcony in wonder - What kind of place is this? And what does it speak of the people who have overcome the risks of staying at the foot of an active volcano and build a home around it?

My background knowledge is limited - with basic understanding that it is probably the most active and dangerous volcano in Japan with repeated eruptions throughout its history. Sakurajima actually floats on the Kagoshima Bay in the southern part of Kyushu. It is a symbol of Kagoshima, located at sea about four kilometers from the center of Kagoshima city. Though it was originally an isolated island, the lava that flowed from the big eruption of 1914 joined it to the adjacent Osumi peninsula.

Coincidentally, we chanced upon a short TV documentary ( in Japanese but we sort of gathered some ideas by feasting on the captivating visuals) on Sakurajima. It showed how these simple and happy people appreciated the fertile soil and worked on making a living from planting crops and vegetables. Specifically, it is well known for the Sakurajima Radish – the largest variety in the world, and the Sakurajima Mandarin Orange – the smallest variety in the world. Some pictures that managed to capture Sakurajima in its full elemental splendour were also featured and they simply left us short of words and in awe of the power of nature.

The next morning, with much curiosity and excitement, we embarked on a visit to the island. We were trying to locate the public carpark before getting onto the ferry but unknowingly, we actually drove the car right onto the base of the ferry itself! So off the little car traveled across the sea with us to Sakurajima! The ferry operated efficiently ( probably the best I have seen so far) - from loading and unloading of cars to having us settling down in comfort ( and if we wish, we could even enjoy some good selection of snacks, drinks and piping hot udon)in a spiff.

Sakurajima on this particular day chose to be active, throwing large amounts of ash to heights oa up to a few kilometers above the mountain and dropping them not just on the surrounding but also across the ocean to the city of Kagoshima. WY had to give up taking pictures on deck as the ash was hitting hard at him full on. Wtih ashfall happening so often, it was quite a sight to behold with so many interestingly designed brolly being used by the locals for shielding from the ash.

The Sakurajima Visitor Center housed a museum that showcased a detailed history of the eruptions of Sakurajima and its relationship with the local people. Located within walking distance from the visitor centre was the seabed where one could observe the reefs and the vast lava field - one that was full of amazing metallic colour and character. A suitably built foot bath area has been installed nearby for the weary locals or travellers to enjoy a simple and free foot soak in the natural hot spring water while enjoying the panoramic view of the seabed and its ocean.

There were a few obervation spots such as the Yunohira Observation Spot at 373m above sea level and nearest to the active Minamidake crater for a great view of the island or the Arimura Lava Observation spot for a dynamic lookout of the lava but we did not manage to hit any of these. It was heartening to learn from WY though, that massive efforts have been put in place to help direct future lave flows away from the civilisation and into the sea.

Furusato Onsen - A real highlight of Sakurajima visit.

Housed at the Kurusato Kanko Hotel, Furusato Onsen was an open air hot spring bath set amid lava rocks right beside the sea. It was also the only onsen that I have come across that provided a white garment ( Yukata ) for both men and women to enjoy the hot spring.

The water was crystal clear with a pretty good temperature that was heated up naturally by the thermal spring beneath the volcano. A carved shrine (龙神观音) was well seated beneath a huge 200 year old tree that literally grew from the base of the lava rocks. The onsen provided a spectacular view of the Kagoshima Bay. It was very relaxing and refreshing to be soaking under the tree and overlooking the bay. Definitely one of the best experiences I've ever had.

After the dip, we had lunch at the restaurant housed within hotel. THAT was our first and best lunch. Each item was exquisitely prepared, from sashimi to kurobuta pork, tempura, vegetables, chawanmushi and dessert...

The sashimi was very fresh and sweet tasting, the pork was tenderly braised and it melted the moment you ate it in your mouth.. exploding with the rich and full of depth gravy, and the radish simply tasted heavenly.

With a very gratifying lunch enjoyed, we headed back to Kagoshima. I have not learned much about the locals but I do admire these people for their strength, persistence and tenacity in working around the conditions and available resources to make this place a home - not just for themselves but for the future generations as well.